Thursday, May 31, 2007

Vietnam Quang Ninh

Vietnam's northernmost coastal province, Quang Ninh runs all the way to the Chinese frontier and border crossing at Mong Cai. Inland the province is bordered by Long Son and Bac Giang to the west and Hai Duong and Hai Phong to the south.

If you're in Quang Ninh and not heading to the Chinese border crossing at Mong Cai, then you're almost definetly heading to the magnificent, breathtaking Ha Long Bay.

The coastline of Quang Ninh has to be one of the most spectacular in the world, with thousands of limestone massifs breaking through the oceans's surface and soaring into the sky. For many a highlight of their visit to Vietnam, slowing cruising through this magnificent maze-like bay, soaking up its seductive atmosphere is a truly enchanting, mystical experience.

While the vast majority of travellers visit Ha Long Bay on an organised tour from Hanoi, it is possible to see the bay using the provincial capital, Ha Long City as a base. Actually made up of the twin towns of Bai Chay and Hong Gai, Ha Long City is a bustling little tourist town with a near endless supply of junks ferrying tourists out into the bay on everything from day trips to week-long extravaganzas. A tourist attraction in its own right -- absolutely not -- but if you're going to Ha Long Bay you'll be passing through here.

Vietnam Hue

Hue, the historic capital of Vietnam, sits astride a truly majestic and beautiful river, the Song Huong (Perfume River). The north-bank is host to its share of hotels and restaurants, but the area is dominated by the old fortified city known as the Citadel, spread across more than 5 square kilometres of ground, crowding out development on that side of the river. As a result, guesthouses, hotels and restaurants have sprung up on the south bank, starting with the river road, Le Loi Street, and stretching further south. The south bank of the river has been developed as park cum promenade, with an eclectic variety of public sculptures on display.

Hue is the capital of Thua Thien Province, with a population of about 340,000. Its location in central Vietnam, just south of the DMZ, made it a scene of heavy fighting during the American War. It's 15km west of the South China Sea and about 540km south of Hanoi and 644km north of Saigon. While the city is also known for the manufacture of textiles and cement, tourism has become its bread and butter.

Hue's complex history has earned it a reputation as a political, cultural and religious centre, but nowadays, visitors to contemporary Hue will find a city that only dimly reflects on its past, and only does so as a begrudging nod to its western visitors. Like Halong Bay to the north, the complex of tombs, pagodas and palaces throughout Hue and its surrounds has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. But to the Vietnamese psyche, shaped by centuries of war and struggle, tempered by nearly forty years of communist rule, this heritage is largely irrelevant and completely disconnected from the present. The overwhelming sense one gets from the city, on even the most casual visit, is of an unstoppable forward drive, and of a people constantly looking to the future.

But the profitability of tourism has lead to a paradoxical situation where, in order to move forward, the citizens of Hue must pry open those doors to the past they would rather leave shut. As a result, the tourist industry here has developed into a half-hearted attempt to give the foreigners what they want and send them on their way. While this has been effective in one sense -- a steady stream of tourists keeps showing up and paying for tours -- in the larger scheme it has also meant many poorly-run tours and disappointed travellers.

At the moment, Hue is a premier tourist destination mostly in theory. In practice, it's still a work in progress. That notwithstanding, it's a beautiful, vibrant city, with great places to stay, great food, and a number of interesting things to do, on and off the well-worn tourist trail of historic attractions.

A word about Hue tours
We've heard numerous complaints about every kind of tour available in Hue. The boat tours can be cramped and noisy. Where lunch is offered as part of the ticket price, it often amounts to only a dish of beans, and you're expected to buy the rest of your meal out of your pocket. Tourists are often dropped off at tombs and ordered to return in one hour, which is hardly enough time to walk from one end the other. The cheapest tours will not provide any information about the sights. And there's a wide variety of standard rip-offs that seem to accompany each tour.

If you want to enjoy a cultural tour of Hue, you're going to have to pay for it. Go for a small group tour, book it through one of the better hotels if possible, and be sure you have time to chat with your guide before you sign up to gague the extent of his or her knowledge and language skills. Otherwise, skip the tour altogether and do it on your own. If you take a motorcycle taxi, hire one to take you there, and a separate one to take you back -- the driver may try to convince you to let him wait for you, but he'll likely charge you much more for it in the end, and there are plenty more taxi drivers where he came from. Take your time. Pack a lunch -- food and beverages in and around the historical sites are well over-priced. Don't try to see everything -- just target a few key spots. Expect nothing much more than you would from a day in the park, and you'll avoid some of the frustrations and let-downs we keep hearing about.

Touring the Sites on your Own
Everything can be visited by car, bicycle, or motorbike on your own. However, everything worth seeing is very poorly marked, and there are a lot of fuzzy maps available that put things in the wrong location. This is done partly by design -- to discourage tourists from touring on their own and force them to hire a guide. But, in fact, one of the best ways to wile away the hours in Hue on a beautiful day is to try to find someplace on your own anyway, get lost, see the countryside, stop along the way, and you'll eventually wind up some place interesting, even if it isn't the place you were heading for when you set out!

Vietnam Mui Neh

One of southern Vietnam's prime slices of beach real estate, Mui Ne is a kilometres-long sweeping bay boasting a huge range of guesthouse and resort options, with the actual village set at the far northern end of the bay. The accommodation and services scene, heavily influenced by its proxmity to Saigon which is a mere four hours away, has developed rapidly in recent years and now offers some outstanding mid-range resort options, though for budget travellers the choices are slowly dwindling.

The beach itself is yellow sand with a semi-fine grain. While the central stretch of the beach through to the northern end is poorer quality and dominated by the fishing industry, the southern stretch is ideal for swimming, sun-baking and deck-chair reclining. The beach is famous for its wind- and kite-surfing. In season, the winds here are as reliable as clockwork, though if you're planning on spending a prolonged period of time doing either, bring your own gear as the prices are not cheap.

Away from the beach, the key attraction of Mui Ne are its sand dunes, of which there are three sets which can easily be visited from Mui Ne, either independently by bicycle or motorbike or by motorbike taxi or jeep. While not of Lawrence of Arabia proportions, they are nevertheless very photogenic and with a bit of trick photography, you too can be Lawrence. Best visited in the late afternoon when the light is sublime, you can also catch the sunset from above Mui Ne village which, with its bevy of fishing boats, is particularly scenic.

Orientation

If you're accustomed to beach towns you can easily walk around, Mui Ne takes some adjustment. Most of the accommodation and places to eat are spread out over a good ten kilometres of beach front. If you want to stay put, pick a spot near the services and restaurants you think you'll be patronising. The really cheap rooms are further north, nearer to town, and if you stay there, a bike or motorbike rental will be invaluable. Xe om are available, but can be hard to find later in the evening and along certain stretches of the road. The town itself isn't of much interest, and you won't be missing out if you never venture that far to the north. The road changes names somewhere in the middle -- the bit closer to Phan Thiet is called Nguyen Ding Chieu, and closer to town it's Huynh Thuc Khang.

There's a centrally-located 24-hour Vietcom ATM right next to the Saigon Mui Ne Resort. There's also an Incom bank closer to town -- it's east of the road to the white sand dunes, 60 metres to the north, and there's a sign on the main road clearly marking it. IncomBank will exchange most major currencies, and there's a 24-hour ATM on site. They don't cash travellers checks -- try one of the big resorts.

There's plenty of internet access available, rates ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 VND per hour.

The main post office is in town, but there's another branch, with a 24-hour drop box, at the Swiss Village Resort. Both offer a full range of postal services and long distance phone calls.

There's also a medical clinic at the Swiss Village -- consults cost US$20, and the Vietnamese doctor speaks English and Russian. The closest hospitals are in Phan Thiet.

Incom Bank: 05 Khu Pho Rd, Mui Ne. T: (062) 848 226, 383. Open: Mon-Fri 07:00 to 11:30 and 13:30 to 17:00.
Medical Clinic: Swiss Village Resort, 44 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne. T: (062) 847 497, (0918) 210 504. Open: Daily 09:00 to 21:00, 24-hour service available.
Main Post Office: 348 Huynh Thuc Chang, Mui Ne. T: (062) 849 799. Open: Daily 07:00 to 21:30.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Vietnam Vacation Guide

Etiquette.

Traveling in Vietnam is not always relaxing. It can be unpredictable, intense and frustrating, but it is rewarding. Being demanding and loud, however, will get you nowhere. Remember the importance of ‘face’ - the subtle but important quality of personal dignity in Asian countries.

Vietnam responsible culture Cao Dai temple, Tay Ninh

Try to learn about the culture before you travel and broaden your experience behoy the guidebook. Guidebooks can make or break a guesthouse or hotel by concentrating people in certain places. Guidebooks are also out of date by the time they are distributed. Be willing to try alternative options.

Learn some of the local language, even the basics such as ‘hello’, ‘good bye’ and ‘thank you’ will be appreciated!

Respect the cultural differences and do not look down on, or try to change them.

Be careful when showing affection in public. Relationships in Vietnamese society are fairly traditional, so in general, it is best to limit affection to holding hands- especially in the rural areas.

Avoid patting or touching people on their heads, it is the symbolic high point in Asia.

Be aware of the importance of the ancestral shrine in Vietnam. Avoid backing up to, pointing your feet at or changing your clothes in front of it.

Dress

To be sure of not causing offense, it is best to respect local dress standards and dress modestly, especially in the countryside.

There are no areas where nude or topless swimming or sunbathing is appropriate.

Women should try to avoid wearing low - cut or tight sleeveless tops and brief, clinging shorts. It is advisable to wear a bra at all times. Men should avoid walking around bare - chested.

At religious sites, do not wear shorts or sleeveless tops, and remember to remove your shoes.

Questions, privacy and humor.

Modest character of traditional operetta, responsible culture VietnamVietnamese concepts of privacy are very different from those of Westerners, as they are accustomed to living and sharing in a close- knit community and in crowded conditions.

Don’t be offended by the very Vietnamese fascination with your personal details; How old are you? Are you married? Do you have children? Etc - questions that you may consider private. You may find the answer ‘not yet’ (Chua) to the question of marriage or children a useful one.

Don’t be taken aback if people are intrigued by your side, especially if you are tall or well built. The Vietnamese are a small, slight race and may openly display their amazement at Western bulk. Remember this when selecting your clothing!

Talk to the locals and make friends. The people of Vietnam are friendly and hospitable. They love it when they hear a foreigner try to speak their language.

Snap happy.

Mask and toys- responsible VietnamVietnam is a photographer’s dream - from the vivid greens of the rice paddies and cloud- shrouded mountain to the bustle of open- air markets and street life, there are endless photographic opportunities. However, nobody enjoys being followed by a camera, so remember to ask permission before taking photographs- and respect a refusal.

Don’t hound men and women in traditional ethnic dress for the ‘perfect colorful shot’ if they appear shy or avoid your camera, and remember that videos are even more intrusive.

Try not to get into the situation of paying for the right to take photos, as it encourages a begging mentality.

If you promise to send back a photo, make sure you are sincere in your offer.

Just say no.

It’s in your own interests to respect local regulations and practices concerning drug and alcohol. Drugs are illegal in Vietnam and their possession or usage carry harsh penalties.

Be careful about alcohol consumption, especially when visiting rural and ethnic minority areas, where as a tourist you may enjoy privileged status.

Remember that tourism can fuel the demand for alcohol and drugs, and lead to increased consumption/ use by locals, encouraging social problems.

Getting personal.

Camp out and meet locals responsible culture VietnamBe aware that in some communities it may be taboo to conduct an intimate relationship with a local.

Don’t assume that what is acceptable at home is acceptable everywhere. Vietnam is still a largely traditional society, and getting involved with a local may cause offense.

Remember also that the recipient of a foreigner’s attentions can be seriously affected within their local communities in terns of their well being, social standing and reputation.

Monday, May 28, 2007

Vietnam Tourism Guide

Etiquette

Vietnamese people are very friendly, polite and generous in general and will make every effort to have foreign guests feel comfortable. In the cities and country towns alike, do not be surprised to be invited home to meet the family of someone you have just met, these are the experiences that will enrich your visit to Vietnam.

We are conservative in our dress. Wearing shorts are tolerated, unless you enter a culturally sensitive area such as a temple or pagoda. Keep in mind that, although tolerant, people may be judgmental.

Unfortunately, there are still some problems with petty theft and pickpockets. This is more prevalent in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and Nha Trang. You should not be paranoid about this but just be aware of your surroundings. Below is a list of Do’s and Don’ts to help you avoid some of the social taboos during your visit. Take these into consideration and you will be rewarded with a culturally and socially enriching experience.

Do's;

ALWAYS drink plenty of bottled water. During the summer months you should be drinking a minimum of 2 litters per day. If you drink tea, coffee & alcohol you should increase you water intake accordingly as these will help to dehydrate you.

Before venturing out from your hotel, ensure you have a hotel business card from the reception desk. This will make your return to the hotel in a taxi or cyclo a lot easier.

For longer excursions from your base hotel, it is always a good idea to carry a roll of toilet paper in your daypack. You never know when you will need it.

ALWAYS dress appropriately. Not only for the prevailing climatic conditions, but also not to cause offence to the local people. Vietnamese have conservative dress codes and it is only in larger cities that these codes are relaxed a little. Do not wear revealing clothing.

ALWAYS leave your excess cash, airline tickets, passports and valuables with the hotels safety deposit facility.

ALWAYS notice when entering someone’s house, at some houses it is a must to remove your shoes at the front door.

ALWAYS ask his or her permission first when taking a photograph of someone. If they indicate that they do not want you to, then abide by their wishes. DO NOT push the issue or offer money.

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Don'ts;

NEVER wear singlets, shorts, dresses or skirts, or tops with low-neck lines and bare shoulders to Temples and Pagodas. To do this is considered extremely rude and offensive.

NEVER give your empty water bottles, sweets and candies to the local people when trekking through ethnic minority villages. You cannot guarantee that the empty bottles will be disposed of in a correct manner and most of these people do not have access to dental health. If you would like to give pens/paper, ask your guide to introduce you to the local teacher and hand them to the teacher for distribution.

NEVER sleep or sit with the soles of your feet pointing towards the family altar in someone’s house.

NEVER venture out from your hotel with more cash than you really need for that day. It is NOT something to be paranoid about, simply do not make yourself a target for pickpockets or drive-by bag snatchers in the big cities. Ho Chi Minh City seems to be a little worse than anywhere else in Vietnam is. On the whole it is one of the safest countries you could wish to travel in.

NEVER lose your temper in public or when bargaining for a purchase. This is considered a serious loss of face for both parties. Always maintain a cool and happy demeanor and you will be reciprocated with the same.

NEVER try and take photographs of military installations or anything to do with the military. This can be seen as a breach of national security.

NEVER take video cameras into the ethnic minority villages. They are considered to be too intrusive by many local people.

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Weather

Hanoi and the north of Vietnam have a distinct winter and summer season with the mainly dry winter lasting from November through to April with average temperatures of 18-20ºC. Summer lasts from May to October and is hot and humid with temperatures around 30ºC. Hue and Danang in the center of the country have very hot, dry weather from February to August with temperatures reaching the mid 30s-Celsius, but can experience some quite heavy rainfall between September and January. Ho Chi Minh City and the south have a hot, dry season from December till April with average temperatures around 28ºC and a rainy season lasting from May through till November. It rarely rains for long periods even in the rainy season with most rain coming in short, heavy bursts.




HANOI (North)


DANANG (Center)


SAIGON (South)

Av. Temp
(Celsius)


Av. Rainfall
(mm)


Av. Temp
(Celsius)


Av. Rainfall
(mm)


Av. Temp
(Celsius)


Av. Rainfall
(mm)

Jan


17


18


22


102


27


15

Feb


18


28


23


31


28


3

Mar


20


38


24


12


29


13

Apr


24


81


27


18


30


43

May


28


196


29


47


29


221

Jun


30


239


30


42


29


330

Jul


30


323


30


99


28


315

Aug


29


343


30


117


28


269

Sep


28


254


28


447


27


335

Oct


26


99


26


530


27


269

Nov


22


43


25


221


27


114

Dec


19


20


23


209


27


56

Current Weather Focast

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What to bring

It is best to travel light in Vietnam. One medium sized bag and a day pack will provide more than enough room to carry everything you'll need to survive, and enough space for the things you'll buy in Vietnam.

There is extensive black market for smuggled consumer goods in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, so do not worry about running out of something.

Before you leave home complete the following checklist:

• Lightweight and quick dry clothing is most appropriate for the summer months and warmer clothing for the winter months; sun hat; swimming costume.
• Travel Documents: Passport, visa, Travel Insurance, Air Tickets.
• Health requirements and travel insurance arranged.
• Flashlight/Torch, alarm clock, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, personal first aid kit, personal toiletries.
• Money: Us dollars or travelers cheques and/or credit card.
• Raincoat or umbrella, good hiking shoes.
• Cable locks or padlock for luggage.

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Visa

Obtaining a single entry, 30-day tourist visa is easy. For a business visa it is a little more complex. (more expensive!) but you'll have the advantage of a longer stay, either 3 or 6 months, and multiple entries. Both visas can usually be extended once in Vietnam. Just ring up Vietnam Embassy and request a visa application.

You will receive your passport back with a visa stamped inside as well as one copy of your application and photo stapled to the page. When you enter the country the immigration officer will take this copy. Some travelers have been told they need to have additional pictures and copies of their visa application. You're directed to a person with a polaroid camera who snaps the needed photos for US$2. You then get back in the immigration line.

Visa extensions can usually be obtained once in Vietnam. You'll see numerous travel agencies and hotels offering this service in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Rates vary, as does the official policy regarding extensions!

How to get the visa upon arrival?

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Airport taxes

International Flights: 14 USD from Hanoi / 12 USD from Ho Chi Minh City Domestic Flights: 2 USD (approx). Kids under two exempt.

Registration

Hotels and private hosts must register your presence with the police. You will be expected to hand over your passport, along with your visa number. A handy tip is to photocopy your passport details several times and then hand this copy in instead of your original visa.

What to wear

The main thing to consider is the weather, as it can be freezing cold in the mountainous North, and at the same time hot and humid on the Central Coast. If you are traveling in the North or the Central Highlands during the winter months definitely bring jeans and a warm coat or sweater. It seems that it is always raining somewhere in Vietnam, so lightweight rain gear is essential.

In the hot months, dress cool but conservative. Many Vietnamese cannot understand why foreigners insist on wearing shorts, tank tops and sleeveless T-shirts when they have the money to dress well. For the Vietnamese, appearance is very important, so if you are dealing with an official of any rank, make sure you are dressed appropriately.

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Currency exchange

The official currency, the dong, is non-convertible and at the time of writing trades at 15,300 (Oct, 2002) dong to USD 1. The US dollar, preferably crisp clean bills, is widely accepted among major shops and restaurants. Travelers checks can be cashed at authorized foreign exchange outlets and banks, and require presentation of passport. There is normally a 2 to 5 percent transaction fee for cashing travelers’ checks. Visa and Master card are accepted in some of the bigger hotels and restaurants.

There are also a small number of international banks now operating in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city, with 24-hour cash withdrawal facilities including A& Z bank.

Current Exchange Rate

Health
No vaccinations are required except for yellow fever if you are coming from an area where the disease is present. However visitors should be inoculated against typhoid, cholera, hepatitis A & B, tetanus and polio. Malaria is present in most of the region and it is advisable to take precautions especially if traveling off the beaten track. Medical facilities are rather limited in all countries and it is essential to take out a good medical insurance policy before traveling in case evacuation is needed.

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Food

The cuisine of Vietnam comes as a pleasant surprise to many visitors and is definitely a part of the Vietnam experience not to be missed. One of the characteristics of Vietnamese food is that it is always fresh being bought the same morning straight from the market. Food is usually prepared with a minimum of oil and served with the ubiquitous fish sauce called nuoc mam. Typical Vietnamese dishes you can expect to try include pho, a type of rice noodle soup eaten for breakfast, cha gio, deep-fried spring rolls and goi ngo sen, a delicious salad made with lotus stems, shrimps and peanuts. Due to the strong Buddhist influence in Vietnam, vegetarian food is widely available.

Electricity

Mainly 220V but in some areas 110V is also used.

Telecom

International phone charges are steep in Vietnam and many hotels, especially up-market ones, add extra fees.

Faxes can be sent from hotels, business centers and post offices. Again, rates vary. To rent a mobile phone call 821-8465 in Hanoi or 824-2382 in Ho Chi Minh City.

There is recently an exist of the new telecom suppliers providing the saving code, just get to any post offices or phone boxes to have number 171 or 178 dialed first and the international code then the country code... costs 1.30 $USD/min to any country.

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Tipping

Tipping for good service is not expected but is always appreciated in these developing nations. It is customary, though not compulsory, to tip tour guides and drivers at the end of a tour. Hotel and station porters should also be tipped.

Water

It is not advisable to drink tap water in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos or Myanmar but bottled mineral water is safe and available everywhere. Ice in drinks is generally OK in good standard hotels and restaurants but it is best to avoid it on street stalls or in country areas.

Business hours

Offices are usually open from Monday to Friday from 07:30 or 08:00 until 17:00 or 18:00 and often close for lunch between 11:30 and 13:00. Some offices also open Saturday morning. Shops open early and close any time between 18:00 and 22:00. Most shops are open 7 days a week.

Public holidays:

January 1: New Year's Day
January/February: Tet or Vietnamese New Year. The actual dates vary from year to year according to the lunar calendar. Officially 3 days holiday but many businesses close down for a full week. This is the busiest time of the year for traveling in Vietnam and hotels, flights and trains are often full.

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April 30: Liberation of Saigon Day
May 1: International Labour Day
May 19: Birthday of Ho Chi Minh
September 2: National Day